"London's longest surviving restaurant purrs along like a vintage bentley and continues to champion Bulldog British Food in an inspired setting that makes tourists dewy-eyed with admiration.  Those who cross the threshold can expect genuine courtesy and good-humoured hospitality without a whiff of tight-collared, conservative pomposity.  Rare-breed beef from the owners Pennine Farm is a feature, but game is the real star: furred and feathered specials vary with the season, from Rules "famous grouse' to loin of roe deer ( a deeply flavoured piece of bambi) with caramelised chicory and Victoria plums.  Readers have also endorsed the Brown Windsor Soup topped with welsh rarebit ( a cheeky take on French Onion), Potted Wiltshire Rabbit and textbook Steak & Kidney pud, while ever reliable Spotted Dick & Raspberry Trifle are flag-waving finales.  House wine is £22, London Tap Water is free"